Danube ice is breaking up, captain!

Icy temps that froze the Danube river have faded and the ice is melting and making a mess. From Deutsche Welle

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replacing Malev airline in Hungary; 48 hours in Venice

Malev is out, everybody else is pushing to get in;  from Prague Post

2 days in Venice by Simon Calder; from London Independent

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London Tube closures – weekend of 18-19 Feb 2012

The line and station outages on the London Tube for this weekend; the entire Circle Line and partial closures on four other lines.

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they’re trying to ‘clean up’ Wenceslas Square

Why do they think getting rid of the sausage stands on Wenceslas Square is a good idea??? Fooey.  from Prague Post

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Pictures in my mind’s eye – vol 3, Prague

When you’re an ignorant point-and-shoot photographer like me, winter is a tough time of year to be taking pictures, especially when you’re far from home with limited time for reshoots. Sunset comes early, I was sometimes shivering when pressing the shutter and most of the failed shots were taken at night. Fortunately, some images stayed in my mind even though they never found their way onto the photo chip.

Oh, those two (too?) cute policemen who guarded the gate at Prague Castle the day it was closed. Clean-cut, in a GQ kind of way, and, of course, in their uniforms. Don’t hardly see them like that in real life any more!

Then there was the hilltop castle and the cable car connecting it to the bottom of the hill along the river Elbe, near Dresden and the German-Czech border. I think our guide said the castle is now a hotel with popular function facilities. On this Saturday night bus ride back to Prague, the place was lit up as though something big and fun, or maybe just important, was going on. I wanted to open a window, just in case there might be party music drifting down.

I took lots of photos of the beautiful Baroque buildings and facades in Prague but I stopped after a while because it was impossible to avoid the dense network of overhead tram lines. The trams are a great form of public transport but the wires ruined my attempts at romantic composition, like an irritating wedding guest who manages to stick his face into every photo. I hope to have better photography skills next time or at least more time to find the shot I really want. Failing that, some Photoshop skills to clean up the result.

A twice missed (or avoided) shot of the beggar who struck an unusual pose in Prague. He looked like the same guy I saw on Charles Bridge, one afternoon in 2005, a distressing thought in itself. He appeared to be in his sixties, maybe older (I keep forgetting that I’M in my sixties but he looked older than me, even in 2005, though maybe only because of his apparent life situation). He was on his knees and elbows in a semi-fetal position and looked tall. He wore a long-sleeved shirt and long pants, but no coat. He kept his limbs pressed tightly together, his head bowed, cupped hands turned skyward. No sign propped up anywhere; he did not speak. I doubt he was a performance artist. When I saw him on this trip, he was on a street near Old Town Square, around 8pm or so. I found myself wondering if locals knew where he begged and whether anyone ever tripped over him. Even if I could have taken a photo, I probably wouldn’t have. I wondered, unhelpfully, about the history of begging in this posture. I have never seen anything like it before or since and he was the only one I saw in Prague on either visit.

Finally, the Christmas ornament in a Prague antique shop near my hotel on Stepanska. Several ornaments in different colors and styles hung on a string that hugged one edge of the front window. The piece that caught my eye was made of mercury- or silver-lined glass beads strung on wire to form a star or wheel. It looked very much like some Christmas ornaments we had on our tree when we were growing up. We had a lot of old ornaments, some from Europe, but I don’t remember being told how they came to be in our Christmas collection. Presumably my Slovak ancestors might have brought them from ‘the old country’.  I couldn’t see the price tag on the Prague ornament and every time I passed the shop, it was closed. Maybe the ornament will be there next time I’m in Prague, like the beggar on Charles Bridge.

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new plans for a Travelodge near an Oxford park-&-ride

If this becomes a reality, it will make staying cheaply near Oxford really easy!

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English market town deserves a visit

Wantage, near the Uffington White Horse, scores high on mystery visit. (from Oxford Mail)

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some current Prague news

Profile of F Kupka; new acquisitions by a Prague art museum (Prague Post)

Restaurant at National Theater celebrating 100 years (Prague Post)

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If you want to celebrate Charles Dickens in the U.K.

Loads of exhibits and festivities in 2012 to celebrate Dickens’ 300th birth anniversary.

Things kicked off this week (London Independent).

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Mainz and Malaga – two days at a time

48 hours in Mainz for Carnival (London Independent)

48 hours in Malaga because it’s warmer (London Independent)

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London Tube outages weekend of 11-12 Feb 2012

This weekend’s London tube outages – partial service on Jubilee, Metropolitan and Northern lines

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Prague Christmas market album

Christmas in Prague – a magical-sounding phrase. Prague was the third of four European cities with Christmas markets I visited in December.

The weather was seasonal, colder than we had in the northeastern U.S. at the time; no snow on the ground and clear, dry days.

market angel by night



gift stalls Old Town Square

Xmas tree by day

The Christmas markets, open daily since mid-morning, looked their holiday best at night. Thousands Continue reading

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Europe is cooooold

Ultra cold weather in Eastern Europe spreading south and west. And it’s messing up travel as well. Both from Deutsche Welle.

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Malev airline shuts down

Hungary’s flagship airline, Malev, has had to shut down. I flew them in 2005 and I really liked their service. Of course, getting bumped up to business class probably had nothing to do with my opinion. News from Deutsche Welle.

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London Tube outages weekend of 4-5 February 2012

Partial line closure on Central line and all of the Victoria line this weekend – 4-5 Feb 2012

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2012 Jane Austen tours now booking with Dad’s favorite tour outfit

Tours International now booking their Jane Austen tours for 2012

They also have a variety of military tours, tours with historical themes, tours relating to other literary figures, garden tours. These are regularly offered but the company will also create custom tours. The variety of tour possibilities has expanded quite a bit since Dad and I took their 3-day tour of the Normandy beaches in 2002. Dad said it was the best tour he had ever taken.  One of these days, I’ll take another one on my own.

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more Dresden photos

Dresden is more than just Christmas markets, even in December. Here are some of the sights away from the bratwurst and Gluhwein that intrigued me…

Buildings and statues

                                                              

zigzag windows on a stairwell                                                     a fearsome statue

Christmas at the indoor shopping center

an Altmarkt Christmas tree

Continue reading

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organic food travels in Czech Republic

Farmers bring their crops to consumers in all sorts of ways

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a Day Trip to Dresden’s Christmas Market

German towns know how to put together a Christmas market. After visiting holiday markets in Copenhagen and Prague in December, I went to Dresden’s, just a two hour bus ride from Prague. Of the three cities, I think I liked Dresden’s markets the best.

castle on the Elbe

Nice weather improves any experience, especially outdoors and it was sunny and crisp on this Saturday. The trip itself provided some idyllic scenery, too. The route paralleled the Labe (Elbe) River where morning mist hovered high above the water. The river’s calm surface provided a perfect mirror for the houses, trees and hills on the opposite bank. An occasional castle Continue reading

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London Tube outages for weekend of 28-29 January 2012

Tube closures – partial line closures and stations for this weekend

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Putting that London skyscraper on hold

In my previous blog post about the walking tour with Hairy Goat, I made reference to a new office spike going up in the City nicknamed the Pinnacle. Economic stagnation may cut it down to size, according to the London Independent. This could be a good thing.

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My visit to Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral

I visited Prague Castle on my first trip to Prague in 2005. With my imperfect knowledge of the metro, I got off at a stop halfway up the hill and hiked the rest of the way. I saw most of the Castle grounds, including the changing of the guard (uniforms designed by the same

guard at Giant's Gate castle entrance

guy who did the costumes for the 1984 film, Amadeus). I had to skip St Vitus Cathedral but resolved to see it next time  (I always assume I’ll return). I did return this past December and paid a proper visit to St Vitus.

My hotel was on Mala Stepanska, a tram stop was just around the corner and a small shop opposite sold tram tickets. The number 22 tram stopped here which goes up to the Castle within the ticket’s 30 minute limit. The tram Continue reading

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London Tube closures weekend of 21-22 January 2012

The latest on the weekend’s Tube work in London – partial closures except for the entire Circle Line.

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When and where for the best views of the Northern Lights

Simon Calder (London Independent) on seeing the Northern Lights

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My favorite artisan stall on Charles Bridge


A local Czech artist,  Barbora Jelínková, makes lovely, delicate glass jewelry. I bought

jewelry stall on Charles Bridge

some of her earrings in 2005 and wanted to get some new ones this time. The seller in the photo is not the artist, but if you look for this fellow and the easel of earrings and pendants, pick something out to take home.

I can’t find any reference to the artist on the web and there are a dozen or more on Facebook but have not found anyone profiled as an artist; see the jewelry closeup for a better look.

jewelry closeup

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do a good deed when you’re in Amsterdam

Here’s an idea for something you might do next time you’re in Amsterdam

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Winter walks in the U.K.

Go for a walk. Here are 50 from the London Independent.

Walks from 2.5 to 14 miles and all lengths in between. Something for everyone and maybe not just for winter!

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Think of Spain for your next festival destination

Spain’s festivals fill the entire year. Here are just a few to pique your travel interest. (London Independent)

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London Tube closures, weekend of 14-15 January 2012

Tube station closures on a few lines and line shutdown of the Northern Line this weekend

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A great walking tour in London with ‘Hairy Goat’

Thanks to a London friend, I took a walking tour of London before Christmas that I would probably never have found on my own. The name of the outfit that conducted the tour is Hairy Goat and if you are a history, photography or architecture buff, or just an ordinary Anglophile, you need to Continue reading

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