A Magpie announcement on upcoming posts

For my regular followers and any new visitors – it’s been four months since the end of one of the longest vacations I’ve ever taken. I’m still in a fog of reminiscence as I scroll thru fotos and try to select topics that are short enough to keep from boring my audience rigid (I’ve always liked that phrase; had to think of a way to use it). Look for photos, stories and other musings from Croatia beyond Dubrovnik; Mostar in Bosnia; Slovenia; Salzburg, Austria; Floriade in Venlo, Netherlands and more on my week in London.

For those I met on the Croatia-Slovenia tour, I’d love to see some of your favorite photos. Also, I finally tracked down the complete quote from Mark Twain on travel. The first part is repeated by Joseph Rosendo on his US travel show, Travelscope and it’s a sentiment that should probably be burned onto the forehead of every politician and posted on the bathroom mirror of every human being on the planet…

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.” Mark Twain wrote this in 1857 and no less true today.

Start planning your next trip today, especially if it will be your first and open your mind!

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London Tube closures for weekend of 13-14 October 2012

This weekend’s Tube closures in London include partial closures on several lines, including most of the Victoria line. It’ll be a pain inna neck getting between Earls Court and Edgware Rd, since both lines serving that path are shut. Folks will have to find the “long way round the barn” to reach Bayswater, Notting Hill Gate and other destinations on that side of the parks.

Last weekend, all of the Circle line was closed and parts of District, Northern and other tube lines were also down, but the stretch of District closed this weekend was at least up and running last w/e so I was able to get to Earls Court and connect to Kensington Olympia for the French Property mini-show.

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A lazy last week in London and home again

I spent all of last week in London. There were a few things planned – meeting friends for drinks, perhaps seeing a show or two, visiting my favorite outdoor spaces, like Trafalgar Square (always need to see what’s sitting on the fourth plinth – this time it’s a golden child riding a gilded rocking horse), Covent Garden Market and the South Bank and the eastern Jubilee bridge.

On Saturday, I got over to Borough Market for the first time, having been intrigued by several scenes on TV travel programs. It was very crowded and very busy and I expect that this was partly because it was Saturday and partly because there’s some sort of construction/excavation work that seems to have cut the market space at least in half. What a shame, but rather than moan about the stuff that wasn’t there, I just enjoyed what was available and, because of the microwave in my ‘flat’, was able to buy a small farm-made pork pie from one of the purveyors. With a couple of slices of Red Leicester cheese, it made a most comforting supper.

The show I went to was Scenes From an Execution with Fiona Shaw. Interesting and provoked several questions about the female painter Shaw portrayed, the gigantic painting she was commissioned to produce (which is never actually shown in the play) and some related thoughts. There was also a small exhibition of French Property, currency exchange, retiring to France from the UK and similar topics at Kensington Olympia. The last thing I squeezed in was Evensong at St-Martin-in-the-Fields on Sunday.

I wanted to squeeze in one more play on Saturday, but I’d developed a sore throat and runny nose, so even if I’d dragged myself out, I probably would have been a really noisy audience member. I’d hoped to see Laurence Fox (he plays Hathaway to Kevin Whately’s Inspector Lewis on TV) in Our Boys, a modern play that examines PTSD and other issues facing combat soldiers trying to rejoin society.

One unfortunate side-effect of taking things as they come is that, once home, the perfectly logical reasons for doing or not doing fade, replaced with wistfulness that the thing didn’t get done or seen despite the need to act differently at the time.

After a long-delayed flight back to the US and some last-minute scrambling to get ground transport from JFK back to my brother’s in New Jersey, I finally got back to my house mid-day on Tuesday. The cats lost no time in expressing their requirements that I get back with the program of feeding them and turning on some flippin heat (meow!!)  It was chilly in the house, down around 58F, so after completing both tasks, I crawled under the fleece blankets and took a nap before tackling the stack of bills that lurked in the shopping bag of mail I had picked up from the post office.

There will, of course, be loads of blog posts about my adventures, rather than the sometimes boring diet of links to news items and potential travel destinations that usually fill this blogsite, so stay tuned!

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Austria and Germany in one day

This post was writtepn several days ago. I thought I had published it but then, I’m still coming to terms with my #&$%$# tablet…

The night train arrived in Salzburg, Austria yesterday morning at 5am. This was better than expected. The ride took an hour more than scheduled for some reason.

Sitting in the train station, waiting for the city to come to life was not something I wanted to do, so I stashed the bag in a luggage locker (they still have such things over here. No Xray screening or anti-terrorism questions!) and went downstairs to get a ticket to Munich. The original plan was to see Salzburg today and do Oktoberfest tomorrow, but I saved a bunch of time by switching. The 9:09 am train, a double-decker, took about 2 hours to Munich. It was filled to bursting with guys in lederhosen and women in long, colorful dirndl skirts, white blouses with short, puffy sleeves and tight-fitting vests to match the skirts.

Briefly, it was a hoot and my new image-stabilized camera was worth what I paid just to get some decent fotos of this drinking festival. Word to those who´ve never been, though. No amount of ´normal´American drinking will prepare you for downing a liter of beer in 45 minutes (that was how long the table I was sitting at with some Germans and one very nice young woman who lives in Florida was available). After that, it was reserved by some other group. Prost!

More on all these adventures and misadventures when I´m home and can upload my fotos.

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Wifi connected in Maribor, Slovenia

Another not-reporting-much post. Sitting in a caffe bar – where they only sell drinks, no snacks, bwut they have better wifi connections than the hotel did. This hotspot is part of MoM – Municipality of Maribor – and, while this small town has less to it than the other, more established places such as Ljubljana and Bled, I’m still impressed with what they have done for their 2012 closeup as a European Capital of Culture. Train station is spiffy, different areas of the city that hosted a variety of events, especially during the summer are identified by huge color-coded balloons – about the size of VW bugs and there a posters and banners and signage all over the place to help visitors get around.

The fellow at the hotel desk – Hotel City Maribor – said the crowds were not as large as everyone had been expecting, though still more than usual. I offered that it was probably hard to predict travel numbers in a year with the summer Olympics in London.

Still, they seem to have made some money out of the whole thing – there is still construction going on.

I hope this puts the city on the tourist radar. Only thing might be that they need to get some better connections from elsewhere – flights and faster trains. That may be a ways off, though.

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Leaving coastal Croatia

Another quick note for followers – the past couple of days have been spent in Dubrovnik and Split, both on the Adriatic. For the next few days, the Dalmatian Sunshine tour will be heading inland for most of the time. Today, after a couple of hours in Trogir – a town that is home to a variety of artisans – we will be heading for Plitvice National Park. Lakes, forest and waterfalls. Relaxation is not a word for this tour and perhaps not an accurate description for any packaged arrangement, but I’m hoping we have enough time to crash for a little while without feeling that I am missing something worthwhile.

At the very least, I can skip logging on. There is no wifi in Plitvice and perhaps not even DSL.

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Short and sweet – a message from Suzanne the Travel Magpie

No links today. No photos yet. Just a quick post from Dubrovnik, Croatia at the start of a long visit to Europe. The cat sitter has been to tend the cats and I can’t get into my aol account tonight.

Weather has been very blustery, so I did not get to walk the city walls yet and the cable car was shut, probably because of the weather. It’s Friday night, after all and there’s a restaurant at the top of the mountain / hill.

Tomorrow I’m taking a day trip to Bosnia, specifically to Mostar. Yesterday, I sat next to a very friendly fellow named Zamir from Mostar who was headed home for a visit; he works in London, so we had a long chat. I hope to be able to put together more detailed posts in the days to come. If not, y’all will just have to be in suspense until I get home and get some of my photos loaded up.

 

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New Saxon finds at Oxfordshire museum in Woodstock

From Oxford Mail.

For the rest of 2012, ancient treasure unearthed by private citizens and their metal detectors will be on display at a free museum in Woodstock, north of Oxford. Cool!

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Deep fried Mars bars carry a disclaimer? Come now!

From the London Independent.

I must confess that a deep-fried Mars bar is still on my list of European goodies to sample and review.

The Mars company apparently thinks their “good name” is being trashed because of this particular Scottish snack and they are trying to require that buyers be notified that Mars does not wish to be associated with this unhealthy treat.

Get a grip, Mars. Do you really think your products are any healthier without the fry-job? Maybe they are, but only just barely. I think you’re just peeved that some “little guy” came up with the idea before you did. So there.

Posted in Europe food & wine, News from Europe, not really travel, Scotland | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Fruit-flavored Czech beer? Really?

From Prague Post.

OK. I could see a lime wedge on your summer beer (did you know this was not for flavor but to keep the flippin’ flies away?) And I sampled some kriek (cherry flavored beer) last time I was in Belgium. So maybe this trend of adding fruit flavors to beer isn’t as revolting as it seems. Then again…

Buyer beware. If the bottle says “radler”, it’s this new stuff.

Mind you, this still requires some research – track some down and give it a taste. In the interest of fairness. But perhaps only after I’ve enjoyed some of the hundreds of “proper” beers crying out to be drunk in Czech Republic, Slovakia, Germany, Belgium, the UK…

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Organ recital festival this weekend in Kutná Hora.

From Prague Post.

A big weekend of organ music starts today in Kutna Hora, an hour south of Prague.

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Horse trials at Blenheim this weekend

From Oxford Mail.

From now through Sunday, International Horse trials at Blenheim Palace.

What, I wonder, did the horses do wrong that they are being tried? Ohhh, THAT kind of horse trial. Never mind.

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a new hotel atop Mont Blanc in France not quite ready for guests

From France 24.

A brand new, high altitude hotel on Mont Blanc in the French Alps has some issues that will prevent it opening as expected. There’s been a fire, malfunctioning solar cooling systems.

My first thought is – are they sure that warming temps in the Alps won’t affect the viability of this crazy place? Climate change could make for one hell of a long mountain slide.

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Battle of Borodino reenacted in Russia

From France 24.

Ignoring the fact that Putin appeared at this year’s re-enactment of the 1812 Battle of Borodino, this could be a fun travel event. It’s held annually on Sept 7th. France also had some dignitaries present, which is a little rub-your-nose-in-it, I think, since Napoleon didn’t do so well at the battle. But what do I know?

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Plum jam to get next time I’m in London

From Oxford Mail.

A small local producer of fruit jams has finally accepted Fortnum & Mason’s invitation. Everything sounds yummy, so I’ll be looking to get some in London, even if the only flavor at F&M is the plum conserve.

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Gevrey-Chambertin chateau and vines sold to Chinese tycoon

From London Independent. A Chines casino zillionaire has bought a very prestigious Burgundy chateau. According to Wikipedia, Gevrey-Chambertin produces 8 of 33 grand cru wines in the region.

My first thought upon reading the headline was whether we would have to start testing French wine for melamine – the deadly non-food additive that was showing up in milk in China and in other products sent for export. That would be really nasty.

Sounds as though the French need to keep a better eye on their national treasures!

Stock up now before anything changes.

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The Netherlands needs more free houses to provide better beer choices for customers – discuss

From DutchNews. A heads-up for beer lovers looking for more in Holland than Heineken and Grolsch (Grolsch now owned by SAB Miller). Pooey.

Beer prices are rising and affecting many landlords because their pubs and cafes are essentially properties renting from a particular brewery.

Who knew Netherlands had a free house shortage? Mind you, any time I see an umbrella or awning with a beer name on it, I assume that’s the only brand sold there. Same holds true in the Czech Republic – Staropramen, Pilsner Urquell, etc all have pubs and cafes serving only their brand.

Maybe just think of it as a way to choose your pub faster?

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Your London Paralympics transport website

The “regular” Olympic Games are over, but the Paralympics start in a few days.

If you want to make sure you don’t get caught in a traffic mess, check this website. By 9 September, it’ll be over and done, but in the meantime…

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Sweden’s parachuting teddy bears over Belarus

This story is already weeks old, but I had to paste this photo from Deutsche Welle‘s newsmail. The Belarus government is fuming over the dropped teddy bears, an event sponsored by some Swedes. The Belarus brass claims international interference in domestic affairs and has already sacked a bunch of top officials. Come now!

I continue to imagine howls of laughter coming from the global community over a bunch of (presumably) overfed politicians getting steamed because thousands of toy bears flew into Belarussian airspace and got pushed out of a plane.

Sort of a philosophical update of the Berlin airlift of the 1950s.

A handout photo provided by Swedish advertising agency Studio Total and made available 3 August 2012, shows teddy bears parachuting over a residential area in Minsk, Belarus on 4th July.

I also wonder what happened to the bears? Is it treason in Belarus to keep one? That sends a weird message. Politicizing teddy bears, for cryin’ out loud!

Yes, the issue of free speech is completely serious, but it also points to the power of laughter to weaken the powerful, especially if they’ve gotten too big for their britches.

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Poffertjes

Pasted from Deutsche Welle Culture page

I had a plateful of these yummy little pancakes sitting at an open-air cafe on the main square in Haarlem, Netherlands almost 15 years ago. I still remember that snack and the late evening sun – it was almost 10pm and it looked more like 8 pm-ish in New England.

EUROPE’S SWEET TREATS

Dutch poffertjes

Poffertjes are a mini, Dutch-style pancake typically served with powdered sugar and butter. They’re made with flour, eggs and milk, but the secret ingredients are yeast and buckwheat flour which give them a light, spongy texture. You can buy the traditional treats readymade in supermarkets, but when the weather is cold they’re also sold by street vendors who’ll cook them while you wait.

Posted in All Suzanne's travel essays, BeNeLux, Europe food & wine, Netherlands travel, not really travel | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

Catherine the Great in Edinburgh

From the London Independent.

An exhibition devoted to Russia’s Catherine the Great is running at the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh thru October 21. Hmmm. Another possibility for my fall trip.

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A new working attraction in Oxfordshire – a steam powered sawmill

From Oxford Mail.

If you’re looking for something that’s a bit out of the ordinary, a steam-powered sawmill is up and running again in Witney. Open for visitors two days a week. Neat!

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Oktoberfest 2012 in Munich – coming soon

Uh-oh! While researching trains between Croatia and Germany, I came across the Munich Oktoberfest website. The dates overlap the days when I hope to be in Germany. This could turn out to be a dangerous trip for some unexpected reasons! Time for a rethink.

Posted in Europe food & wine, European festivals, General magpie travel, Germany travel, News from Europe | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Prague Underwater – a photo exhibit in Prague commemorating the floods of 2002

From Prague Post. Prague Underwater, a photography exhibit of the “once in a century” floods in 2002 runs through October 7, when it will move to the Old Town Hall.

Flood barriers have been improved since then and have been built to withstand an even higher flood level than occurred ten years ago. Can New Orleans and the Army Corps of Engineers say the same?

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April in France – a new baguette from McDonald’s

From France 24. It’s a long way off, but if you’re in France in April, keep an eye out for Le McBaguette. It looks and sounds pretty good. I might be tempted to try it, except for a recently developed allergy to beef. I’ll just stick with my usual jambon et fromage. Not a bad consolation. Bon appétit!

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Beer on the brain – British beer festivals and a tasting list

I found this calendar of beer events in Britain. I’m especially curious about the Bricklayers Arms in Putney. They describe themselves on their website as a year-round beer festival. That could be very dangerous! They are also a good ten minute walk from the nearest Tube or rail station. Need to scout the route sober.

From the London Independent – a list of 50 great beers, just in case suggestions are needed as a starting point. Then again, if you can lay your hands on a few of these, you can have your own home-based festival and not worry about sleeping it off in some back alley or missing the last train back to familiar territory.

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Google scoops up Frommer travel guidebooks

From the London Independent.

Google bought Zagat less than a year ago and now they have acquired Frommer’s Travel guides. There’ll be an app for that soon, I suspect. The buzz at next winter’s New York Travel Show, which typically includes Arthur Frommer and/or his daughter, might prove interesting.

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Fare hikes on British rail lines in 2013

From the London Independent.

Add to your rail budget next year. The hikes are set to exceed inflation – a royal pain in the pocketbook for commuters but even tourists will need to research whether a BritRail pass will save them money if they ride the rails a lot. Final details are not yet decided. Could just be a trial balloon, but such headlines are nasty even if they prove overblown. Fooey.

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A new coffee chain set to open in the UK

Coffee is not the first food group that springs to mind when I visit the UK, but I usually manage to slurp down an espresso at either Costa Coffee or some other chain during my stays. From the London Independent – Tesco is joining the coffee house trend. Not in London yet; maybe by the time my next visit rolls around in 2013.

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Some travel ideas for the UK

From London Independent – some grand days out. The only one I’ve been to is Leeds Castle, in 1990 where I stumbled upon a huge display of Bentleys surrounded by several hot air balloons.

Also, a look at St Kilda, four tiny specks of islands out in the Atlantic Ocean, west of the Outer Hebrides. Talk about the back of beyond!

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