London Tube updates – 20-21 September 2014 and possible bus strike

Here’s the link with information on this weekend’s Tube closures.

*** The bus strike planned for all day Friday into the wee hours of Saturday morning has been called off. The strike on Monday is currently set to go on all day, again into the night bus hours early Tuesday morning. Up-to-date info is here.

Farringdon station will be shut on Sunday.

The District line will not be running between Barking and Upminster.

Jubilee line will be down on Saturday between Willesden Green and Stanmore; closed between Waterloo and Stanmore on Sunday

Metropolitan line is closed between Aldgate and Northwood/Uxbridge this weekend but extra Piccadilly line service will alleviate some of the headache.

London Overground has no service on Saturday and part of Sunday between Highbury / Islington and New Cross / Crystal Palace/West Croydon / Clapham Junction. There are multiple outages on Sunday – Clapham Junction to Kensington Olympia; Sydenham to Crystal Palace and between Willesden Junction and Camden Rd

A procession midday on Sunday will foul up traffic patterns in Westminster. Forewarned…

Tower Bridge will be closed overnight 22.00 Sunday until 5.00 Monday

Reminders –

Putney Bridge set to reopen on 26 September

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

 

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Three and a half nights of London theatre – Part 2

So now we come to the whole reason why I crossed the pond in the first place…

I was more than ready for Wolf Hall when Monday night rolled around, probably one of the most anticipated nights of theatre I’ve had in a long, long time. I was curious how the huge character list from the book would be pared down and how the story would unfold as a result. The short answer – it was terrific. Let me also say here that I’m willing to concede that my conclusions and impressions of motives and emotions may not be exactly what was intended, but it hangs together in my mind, so here goes. One other observation – quite accidental – my seats for both performances were in the back half of the stalls (orchestra) and this theatre had an exceptionally low ceiling under the mezzanine in that part of the house. It contributed to the feeling of airlessness at the Tudor court.

The stage was bare except for occasional bits of furniture or other props, which kept the focus sharply on the characters. The play begins with a courtly dance with all the primary characters moving smoothly and changing partners as they moved, the King front and center – a metaphor for the entire story, if ultimately a danse macabre? The upstage wall is four quadrants of concrete-looking slabs almost meeting in the center, forming an open cross and adding to the feeling that nobody would escape their fate or their faith. Strips of fire as hearths, perhaps also hinting at the dangers of the times; rain to darken the mood. Thomas Cromwell, played by Ben Miles, almost never off the stage. Nathaniel Parker (aka TV’s Inspector Lynley) towering above everyone else as Henry VIII, not having turned to fat yet. One thing I might have done differently – not double up actors for some roles. The same person played Katherine of Aragon’s daughter Mary as well as Jane Seymour. Her Princess Mary was overly sickly, petulant, hanging her head in an almost vulture-like droop. I found her an oddly unsympathetic personality (are we supposed to view her that way because others in the play are so inclined? If so, it doesn’t do any favors for her mother). Her Jane Seymour was swallowed up by her white clothes. Other double-up jobs were not so noticeable, though that may just be my unfamiliarity with the actors. Of course, costuming and dialogue helped to minimize confusion.

Cromwell is described as ruthless, but I saw this only in a political sense rather than a personal one, at least in Wolf Hall. I had the same feeling when I read the book. On the other hand, in Bring Up the Bodies, the political finally becomes personal for Cromwell, as it has been all along for many others.

One scene melted into the next, the pace brisk but the plot, the thread, unmuddied; a growing feeling of inevitability – whether you’ve read the books or just paid attention in history class, you sort of already know who survives and who doesn’t. For some characters, this is just a new version of their story – think Anne of the Thousand Days and A Man for All Seasons, told from a different point of view.

A slight suggestion of place – the palace or Cromwell’s home, the river or the Cardinal’s rooms, proved this element to be secondary, often serving only to show that a particular conversation was possible without being overheard; more set dressing to show the where would only have slowed scene changes, taking away from motives, relationships and the growing feeling of life moving all too fast onto very unstable ground for all concerned – nowhere to hide. As the head/body count rises, characters who died reappear occasionally as ghosts to help the story along – one way to make up for having to squeeze the books’ thousand pages into six hours of theatre.

My favorite moment in Wolf Hall (I suppose this could be a spoiler alert of sorts) was between Cromwell and his wife, Liz. Only a couple of scenes to show their loving relationship, how they fretted over one another, as well as their children (son Gregory is here, but their two daughters are only talked about). The feeling between them is summed up in one gesture as Cromwell, coming home after some time away, holds out his hand to Liz, fingers spread for her to grasp. Later, when Liz and the girls are being sent out of the city to avoid the seasonal ‘sweating sickness’, Liz says to Thomas, “Don’t die. Don’t leave me alone”, to which he replies, “I’ll never leave you, Liz”, and reaches out behind him, fingers spread, towards the place where she’s sitting. His hand remains empty; the place where Liz had been is dark. When Cromwell turns around, the chair is lighted again but Liz is not there (she and their daughters have died from the sickness after all). An exquisite, wordless moment.

Wolf Hall ends with Anne, finally queen and mother to Elizabeth, miscarrying a boy; Thomas More on the verge of execution for refusing to sign the oath acknowledging Henry as head of the new English Church over the Pope; Henry bemoaning the fact that Cardinal Wolsey’s gone and, in the final seconds, Henry taking a long look at Jane Seymour (whose family home, btw, is Wolf Hall) spotlit upstage, mousy and small in her white dress. Uh-oh.

Brilliant, supremely satisfying theatre all around. I could easily have watched it again.

My final night for soaking up more of this thrilling Tudor saga came on Wednesday. Back to the Aldwych Theatre for part 2 of the Cromwell saga, Bring Up the Bodies. We pick up the story where Wolf Hall left off, rapidly slipping under the singular juggernaut that will kill Anne, impoverish her family and send the men accused of being her lovers to the chopping block.

Now I begin to see a personal ruthlessness in Cromwell towards Anne Boleyn. His relationship with her has become increasingly brittle. Anne wishes that Katherine were dead and Mary declared a bastard (among other things) but I don’t think these issues are the focus of Cromwell’s especial grudge. I think his main beef with Anne is that he holds her responsible for Cardinal Wolsey’s downfall and subsequent death (though not by execution, per se). Wolsey had been a great mentor of Cromwell’s, as well as his employer. Wolsey became Henry’s chief advisor and Cromwell took good notes. When Wolsey falls out of favor, unable to procure Henry’s divorce to Katherine from the Pope, Cromwell’s loyalty to Wolsey puts him in good standing with Henry, allowing him to step onto that dangerous escalator of power and favor. Cromwell even manages to engineer the change of wife that Wolsey had not managed to achieve but once Anne’s star begins to fade, Cromwell sees an opportunity to make Anne pay for the Cardinal’s destruction, even if she was more the excuse than the engine. He is also becoming more aware of how he will ensure his own survival. It’s a tightrope many have walked – giving the king what he wants or thinks he needs while keeping away from the scaffold and maybe even getting some of their own back. Some are more successful staying alive than others, no thanks to Henry. Life around the king is getting more and more treacherous.

Bring Up the Bodies was only slightly less engrossing than Wolf Hall, maybe because Wolf Hall had so much groundwork to lay on so many fronts that the singular plot line in Bodies of getting rid of Anne seemed unexciting by comparison, though that’s a thought I’m only having now. Many of the nobles who come to the fore now didn’t fit as easily into my mental genealogy – Norfolk? Suffolk? I kept trying to visualize where these regions were on the map, a pointless exercise. There was a “did they/didn’t they” feel as proofs were sought, witnesses heard and/or encouraged. Had we been watching a jury trial, there was more than enough reasonable doubt to go around.

Bodies ends with Boleyns et. al. dispatched, Henry anxious to wed and bed Jane Seymour and Cromwell ready to tackle whatever comes next. We hope.

I can hardly wait for the third volume of the trilogy to come out sometime this year and I’m curious to know what will become of these two plays as a result.

And under the heading of “that figures”, not only are the books being made into a six part TV series (with different actors from the staged version) but just this week I read that discussions are in progress for bringing the plays to Broadway in the spring. Mention was made of possibly using American actors for this US event, which I find beyond ridiculous. If it’s a question of work visas – pulleeease! Get a grip, guys! Must wait and see. Whatever happens, I was lucky enough to see these two marvelous productions in my favorite city on earth and that is more than enough.

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Three and a half nights of London theatre – Part 1

London is my favorite place on the planet, not least because it’s where I can OD on theater. This time, I had to book way in advance to be sure of tickets to the two plays the RSC has mounted adapting Hilary Mantel’s two Thomas Cromwell novels. These shows were at the end of my week in London and the subject of Part 2 of this subject, so there were a couple of other nights to fill in the meantime.

On my first night, I was dismayed to find that Richard III with Martin Freeman was sold out. For those not familiar with London theatre practices, a small number of tickets are held aside for purchase on the day of the performance but only in person, usually in cash. These typically are offered starting around 10 am and disappear in a matter of minutes. The only other chance for a seat is to “queue for returns”, which means that anyone holding a ticket but unable to use it can contact the box office, who will resell the seat. No refunds, but it seems much more civilized than having people clogging up the sidewalk in front of the theatre trying to sell off extra tickets. I hadn’t been in town for the 10am thing, hadn’t even been aware of the play and didn’t feel like taking a chance on a return, mostly because the theatre where the play was being done is a really small one. London, like New York, is awash with musicals, a genre I’m not especially fond of (not sure why; that’s just the way it is). The National didn’t have anything unmissable going, either, so I decided to walk around the West End to see what I might find. No opera, no ballet. Hmmm.

In the end, I opted for Jeeves and Wooster in Perfect Nonsense, mostly because I remembered a similar play in NY years ago that Dad had gotten a big kick out of. Also, John Gordon Sinclair (Gregory’s Girl) was in this show and I figured if he was in it, it would be enjoyable. Weelll… not so much. On the plus side, the stagecraft was clever and the actors’ timing was impeccable, broad movements kept perfectly in sync with sound effects. On the (big) minus side, this was too too much British music hall slapstick, nudge-nudge, wink-wink for my taste. Sinclair played the always suffering, stiff-upper-lip Jeeves. The rest of the audience was truly enjoying the performance (complete with scenes requiring male characters to cross-dress). I suspect many in the house remembered similar shows from childhood – likely accounting for the extension of the run. I was not among these enthusiastic playgoers and I must admit to doing something I don’t recall ever having done in my life. I left at the interval! Sorry, John. Fry and Laurie were not, as I recall, ever as uncomfortably dopey as this. A tiny reward for my premature departure – saw Tim Pigott-Smith (best remembered as the nasty officer from Jewel in the Crown and currently the voice of Viking River Cruises) walking along the street, possibly coming from rehearsal for King Charles III, a play that hadn’t opened yet. Don’t know. Didn’t ask. Didn’t say hello, just a moment of recognition. This took care of Friday.

On Saturday, I got a recommendation for a show I really did enjoy  – Epstein, the Man Who Made the Beatles. Just two actors, one set and a thoughtful look at the guy who arguably changed pop music forever and perhaps offering some clues as to how the Beatles’ music, lyrics and stage presence/s tapped into Brian’s own yearnings, at a time when his sexual orientation kept him thoroughly closeted. Those longings may have been the key to the whole phenomenon. The entire play presents just one night late in Epstein’s life, after the Beatles stopped playing live and his involvement with them declined. Brian’s apartment, all white walls, sleek furniture and modern decorative touches shows a control of environment that Epstein felt less and less at the point in his life that this fictional encounter is set.

Andrew Lancel, as Brian Epstein looked similar enough that video projections of real footage mixed with ‘faked’ stuff didn’t jar. At one point, Brian falls into sudden rage; the contrast between a man mastering his emotions and someone whose demeanor changed so drastically and quickly was stark and believable, the air of comfortable assurance in the flat vanishing and the space becomes oppressively claustrophobic. One other point – I’m sure I’ve seen Lancel before but program credits didn’t ring any bells. A terrific performance.

Will Finlason’s character stepped outside the fourth wall to speak to the audience, both at the start and end of the play. He was identified only as ‘This Boy’. He presents himself to Brian as a young (post-Beatles) lad from Liverpool who thinks the full story of the Beatles’ success must include Epstein’s own role and genius. Brian has brought him home hoping for sex and that electric undercurrent pops up throughout the play. This Boy is blond, slightly angelic – Brian’s idea of the perfect rent boy? Will was definitely watchable and gave an endearing rendition of Baby It’s You, complete with guitar. (No mention that the song was written by Burt Bacharach; irrelevant, really)

By the second half remembering, or thinking you knew, how Brian fitted in (or didn’t) with the Beatles tribe and how he ended up, increased awareness of the story hurtling to its conclusion; an awful, gathering cloud of sorrow. Most of the audience looked to be one age group – they/we came of age with the Beatles and Brian. Not a whole lot of Beatles music until one scene near the end; just enough to take you down memory (or Penny) lane and maybe leave you there for just a moment before the sound fades and you’re back in the present of the flat. Other groups Brian managed came in for mention, like Gerry and the Pacemakers.

I’m still searching for the playscript. Foyle’s (in its spiffy, spacious new Charing Cross location) didn’t have it, the bookshop at the National Theatre on the South Bank is temporarily gone during current redevelopment and the website for NYC’s Drama Bookshop came up empty. Rats.

At least the Epstein play left me sure I’d seen some very good theatre – a good vibe to get me through the rest of the weekend. Gary, the guide for a walking tour (post to come) I went on earlier in the day, gave me the tip. Thanks, Gary! You wouldn’t happen to know where I could lay my hands on the printed play, do you?

See Part 2 for my thoughts on Wolf Hall and Bring Up the Bodies.

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A sea of poppies at the Tower of London

My most recent trip was filled with a wide variety of experiences and locales. It will take a while to sort through the photos, journal notes and other hasty scribbles to make sense and produce some decent posts, especially since so many photos turned out to be less than even vaguely useful. That may make for several new blog posts under the heading of Pictures in My Mind’s Eye, a category I haven’t added to for quite a while.

As a starter, here are some photos from the moat around the Tower of London which is being filled with almost nine hundred thousand red poppies in remembrance of WWI.

poppies at the Tower 1

Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red at the Tower of London

For some reason, when I first heard about this effort, I thought the poppies were real, live ones. It may have been because of the cascade that flows down the wall from a window

blood red cascading down the Tower wall

blood red cascading down the Tower wall

and possibly also because the projected completion date is so much later in the calendar than the start date. Watching the volunteers assembling and ‘planting’ these ceramic flowers in this Paul Cummins installation made it obvious that filling the moat with real flowers would not have been as vivid and might not have been successful – Mother Nature having a mind of her own. The poppies are disassembled, so the volunteers need to put the pieces together – the stalk, some sort of stopper at the end so the red flower stays put, and a washer to keep the thing from shimmying back down the stick. Then stick it in the ground. Hard to tell if this last bit was the hardest part – after all, the moat has been settled for a thousand years, give or take.

'planting' poppies

‘planting’ poppies

The project is selling the poppies online for delivery after the exhibit ends on 11 November 2014.

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London Tube updates – 13-14 September 2014

In addition to the usual construction and rehabbing disruptions, this Sunday sees the Tour of Britain in London, a bicycle race of 88 km through Whitehall, Westminster and the City. Click on the Tour link to get the route map, should you want to avoid the mess or find a spot to watch and cheer.

Here’s the link with the rest of the info.

The Chancery Lane station on the Central line will be shut on Sunday.

The only other Underground closure this w/e is on the Northern line but it’s a big one – the elongated insect-like lines from Charing Cross and Moorgate north through Kings X to Hampstead and High Barnet. Realistically, the closure extends to Embankment, since the Northern line is not stopping there. Having Embankment out of the picture made for a constant rethink when I was in London last week, though the fact that my room was equidistant between Embankment and Charing Cross made life a bit easier. This new wrinkle would make my location less than ideal were I there this weekend.

London Tramlink closure all weekend between Morden Rd and Ampere Way

London Overground has no service between New Cross Gate and Crystal Palace/West Croydon both days and between Camden Rd and Willesden Junction via W Hampstead on Sunday.

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

 

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Magpie update – August / September 2014

In many ways, summer is possibly my least favorite season. Sure, there is no snow to shovel and late sunsets mean more time to be out and about. But, especially in terms of travel, summer is when I’m most likely to stay stateside, putter in the garden (such as it is) and look forward to autumn. Summers can be beastly hot – which for me means anything above 75F or about 23C, everywhere worth going to is likely to be super crowded with families taking advantage of school vacations to get out of town and regular folks escaping the office for some R&R with some sun added, not to mention the fact that prices for accommodation and transportation are higher- the old supply and demand nonsense. A veritable zoo at every turn. I just can’t stand it.

This year was different, though. I blame Thomas Cromwell. Or Hilary Mantel. The latter has written two books of a trilogy regarding the former. Fascinating stories of real historical figures spun together with imagined but totally believable conversations and encounters, many based on historical record. Each book in excess of 400 pages yet reading at the pace of one of those (much shorter) junky romance novels.

See, these books have been distilled into two plays and are being staged in London. They were originally supposed to run only through the first week of September of this year. After a longish argument with myself over whether to get tickets – after all, they were (and are) sure to be a sellout. Maybe they would come to NYC or even get slated for satellite broadcast in theatres as many National Theatre productions have been. I could save myself a ton of money not to mention hassle and uprooting of my cats’ routine, by crossing my fingers and waiting for developments. In the end, the decision was made to produce the stories again for film, probably to be broadcast on PBS in the US but by then I had booked a ticket for each show for the first week of September and began to think about what sort of trip I could build around this slightly silly decision.

Once I had the ticket vouchers, there were other events that came on to my radar. For all the times I’ve been to Edinburgh, I’d never been to the Tattoo. This is a bagpipe and dance extravaganza held each year in August on the forecourt of the Castle and it’s always one of the hottest tickets going. August. Another internal discussion ensued. If I was gonna be in the UK anyway, maybe this year would be my best shot at seeing the Tattoo. Besides – Scotland in summer is cooler than London; how hot could it really get?

As I said, this event books up fast and by the time I’d decided to go, there were only a couple of dates available and only two of those had any reasonably priced seats left. Then something really odd happened. I booked a top ticket for a different date than I had been planning. That’s what I get for playing around on a website that helpfully logs all your viewed possibilities and not paying more attention to the log. Then I almost booked a flight for the same date, which would have meant missing the thing!

Anybody here see a brain missing its owner?

So, long story a bit shorter for now, if you love spectacle and particularly if you love bagpipes, YOU MUST GO!

In between the Tattoo and that final stint in London, I added several days in Orkney – a stunning group of islands just a few miles off the north coast of Scotland and reachable by ferry in less than 90 minutes. Phenomenal group of Neolithic sites, the most famous probably being Skara Brae but for my money, the most fascinating turned out to be the Broch of Gurness. Even more exciting for archaeology nuts like me, new sites are being found all the time… I just missed an opportunity to visit the Ness of Brodgar, a huge new dig that had just been closed up for the year.

There was the successful quest to visit the Kelpies – the full size metal sculptures whose miniature selves came to Bryant Park a few months ago. Another stunning attraction which, singly, has created a tourism business in quiet little Falkirk, Scotland.

Back to Edinburgh for an overnight before flying over to Berlin. Why Berlin? Twin answer – it’s been on my list recently, to see both East and West and it had the cheapest plane ticket of any destination north of the Alps (summer, remember).

Berlin is amazing and, like everywhere else I’ve ever been, with the possible exception of King’s Lynn, a place which I could not give nearly enough time. I loved Berlin even though the guy at Tourist Info at the airport sent me to the wrong flippin’ UBahn station. Ha! I sorted that out and the extra hour on the UBahn system came in mighty handy over the subsequent days.

A five hour walking tour took me everywhere I could think of, including a big stretch of properly pathetic-looking Wall, Checkpoint Charlie (now a rather disneyfied photo-op location overshadowed by, natch, a McDonald’s. Having left the overcrowded #100 public bus at the Reichstag, I saw a poster for an outdoor sound and light show telling the story of Germany’s Parliamentary evolution, from 1871 thru the present day. It was nice to be out in the evening, hanging out with a bunch other people. English subtitles (the international language of tourism) and rousing, almost Wagnerian music and lighting effects.

So now I find myself in London; still my favorite city on the planet. I’m sitting in a dorm room at the London School of Economics, with the best WiFi I’ve had this whole trip, well, except for yesterday AM at the Gatwick Yotel. It feels like I’m on retreat – no TV, a room by IKEA on the ninth floor, overlooking a grubby courtyard with a symphony of city-improving jackhammers gliding through the window with the breeze.

But enough of this reverie. It’s past 11AM, I’ve been rattling on since before 9 and it’s time for a break. Tickets to collect, postal envelopes to get for mailing crap home. And did I mention? there’s never been a day that was warmer than about 75F.

Who knew?

This’ll be it until I get back to the  States, but I’ll clean this up then and hope to post more… fewer words and lots of photos.

Auf wiedersehn. I think.

Posted in All Suzanne's travel essays, All Suzanne's travels, Archaeology in Europe, England, Europe food & wine, European festivals, European music, Germany travel, London travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

London Tube updates – w/e of 30-31 August

This weekend sees only a few closures –

the Chancery Lane station on the Central line is shut,

Jubilee line is closed between Waterloo and Stanmore

No service on the Metropolitan line between Aldgate and Northbridge/ Uxbridge; Piccadilly line will have some enhanced service between Rayners Lane and Uxbridge to relieve some of the aggro.

The biggest pain-inna-neck if

you’re out and about on foot, however, will be the (likely) ridiculous scrum around the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank today (Satruday). Seventy couples will be tying the knot there. Flash mob matrimony?

Sorry, no links today. Go to TfL’s website if you need more info.

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news from Prague – summer 2014

Here are a bunch of interesting tidbits with info on what’s going on in and around Prague – for those who don’t click on my Prague HOT LINK!! Some originally noted in Prague Post.

Leave it to the Czechs to brag about a breeding program for lizards!

Something one-of-a-kindish – Whisky Live Prague in late September. (When you click on this link, there’s an irritating pop-up; click on the right-hand box to access; it’s in Czech, even though you’re on the English language page. [Bizarre! Divný!])

See the list of 16 sites in Czech Republic which are seeking UNESCO World Heritage status.

If you’re in Prague in October, check out the Signal Festival – Prague lights up!

I wonder if there’s some sort of hidden message on this one – Prague Zoo’s hippos are getting corporate sponsorship… from Hilton.

For those who don’t expect to travel to China and/or who may have missed the Terracotta Warriors when they visited NYC in 2012, two of them will be on display at Prague Castle’s Imperial Stables.

New food tours in Prague show there’s more to Czech cuisine than klobasa and sauerkraut; mind you, there’s nothing wrong with klobasa and sauerkraut!

Just opened – Letní Letna acrobatic / circus / theatre festival. Runs for two weeks and a bit.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 16-17 August 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Metropolitan line – Chalfont & Latimer to Chesham closure between 11.30 and 17.15 both days.

District line – Aldgate East to Bromley-by-Bow and Barking to Upminster

Jubilee line – Sunday only – Waterloo to Finchley Road

Hammersmith/City line – Moorgate to Barking

London Tramlink – service outage from East Croydon to Sandilands thru Sun 17 Aug

London Overground – both days -Highbury & Islington to Clapham Junction/New Cross/Crystal Palace/West Croydon. Sunday only – S Tottenham to Barking and Sydenham to Crystal Palace. Early Sunday shutdown between Gospel Oak and Stratford at 21.30.

TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … weekend closures are no longer required on the westbound carriageway. Any additional work will be done overnight. Yahoo!

The Hogarth flyover in Chiswick is down through the end of August and there’s the usual mashup at Wembley for the football.

Bus schedules and road use – Click here for road works, traffic snarls and road-closing events. Putney Bridge closure lasts until October, road works near Aldgate will mess up southbound Minories until May 2015 (lovely) and road closures in and around Piccadilly, the Mall, Whitehall late Sunday morning for a parade.

Reminders –

new – Chesham station is closed both days this w/e between 11.30 and 17.15.

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Paddington – Exit only from Bakerloo line until late August 2014.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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Travel and art news from France – summer 2014

From France 24.

The Paris Pantheon has been wallpapered with some 4000 selfies by street artist JR, thru early October.

On the topic of selfies – Parisian authorities are trying to effect a sea change away from those bridge-destroying “love locks” and create a new, safer trend of special selfies. I rather think that other cities with a similar threat to their city bridges will be watching.

UNESCO has granted World Heritage status to Grotte Chauvet, a prehistoric cave in France’s Ardeche.

I particularly love this one – the French, particularly Parisians, are being asked to be less rude to the (economy-subsidizing) tourists. To be sure, Paris is a bit daunting for me – I speak French even worse than a Spanish cow (a French phrase describing someone whose French language skills are really, really bad), but I didn’t find the locals rude so much as bemused by my attempts to speak their beautiful language. The Belgians are much more forgiving; Brussels especially, perhaps because that is such an internationally polyglot city.

A stolen Matisse finally comes home.

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Random news from the Netherlands – summer 2014

A bunch of items from Dutch News. Though some of the articles came out several weeks ago, the news is still valid as far as I can find.

Mopeds, helmets and bike lanes.

A surprising find during restoration of a Dutch Golden Age painting. A self-portrait is finally vetted as a Rembrandt. See it at home – Buckland Abbey, a National Trust property.

We’re back to the tourist-marijuana issue – non-locals can be banned from coffeeshops if a town or city wants it that way. And, in a similar “how will that work” vein – a smoking ban is coming for (non-dope) cafes and bars. What if smoking dope gets banned too?

Hash Brownies? Pot-laced poffertjes?  Photo from Food Safari wordpress blog.

What to do with the Crimean gold artifacts currently on loan to a Dutch museum. The exhibit has been extended from the beginning of June thru the end of August and I really wish I could find a way to see it! It’s hard to feel confident that these pieces will wind up going back to a safe and universally agreed home – at least, not yet.

 

 

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Food news from Oxford and new rail station plans

A roundup of food and other news from Oxford Mail.

Changes, perhaps not all for the best, coming to Oxford Rail Station. A more recent update from BBC news here.

Oxford Kitchen restau.  The Rusty Bicycle for great pizzas and burgers. Ooo – tea at Blenheim Palace. Yum! A great spot for brunch at Quod Brasserie.

Friday fish & chips at Hayman’s Fish Market.

Giraffe has a great brunch. I’ve eaten at the London South Bank location and can attest to the quality and interesting variety of the fare.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 9-10 August 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures. Central London is pretty much normal. but reporting on the goings-on is getting complicated – so many links to update!

National Rail has one glitch out of Euston station this weekend – no London Midland trains and limited Virgin service. Service reductions extend into Monday.

Piccadilly and Metropolitan lines – Rayners Lane to Uxbridge (not part of the route to Heathrow on Piccadilly)

London Tramlink – service outage from East Croydon to Sandilands thru Sun 17 Aug

London Overground – three disruptions are Sunday only – S Tottenham to Barking, Queens Park to Watford Junction and Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction.

TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … weekend closures are no longer required on the westbound carriageway. Any additional work will be done overnight. Yahoo!

The Hogarth flyover in Chiswick is down through the end of August and there’s the usual mashup at Wembley for the football.

Bus schedules and road use – Click here for road works, traffic snarls and road-closing events. Putney Bridge closure lasts until October, road works near Aldgate will mess up southbound Minories until May 2015 (lovely) and road closures both days for the Prudential RideLondon cycling event.

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Paddington – Exit only from Bakerloo line until late August 2014.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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London Tube closures for weekend of 2-3 August 2014

Apologies once again for not bothering to post last weekend’s Tube disruptions. Two weekends out of three that the world had to function without my London Tube updates (yeah, like the city ground to a halt. As if).

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures. Not too bad as these things go.

Jubilee line – late opening from 11 am between Waterloo and Finchley Rd on Sunday

Piccadilly and Metropolitan lines – Rayners Lane to Uxbridge (not part of the route to Heathrow on Piccadilly)

London Overground – all weekend – Clapham Junction to Kensington (Olympia). Sunday only – Gospel Oak to Barking is shut as well as Camden Road to Willesden Junction via West Hampstead. The stretch between Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction opens late on Sunday – 8.30.

TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … weekend closures are no longer required on the westbound carriageway. Any additional work will be done overnight. Yahoo!

Bus schedules and road use – Click here for road works, traffic snarls and road-closing events. These include a street festival in Brixton on Sunday, Putney Bridge closure until October, road works near Aldgate that will mess up southbound Minories until May 2015 (lovely) and road closures around the ExCel centre on both days for the London Triathlon.

Road issues this w/e –

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Paddington – Exit only from Bakerloo line until late August 2014.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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Removing a couple of posts

Recently, I have become aware of the growing number of spam comments attaching themselves to a few of my older blog posts. This is supremely annoying, not to mention time-consuming – clearing out the spam folder so often.

If this is a sign that my blog is “getting around”, I am wishing for a different, less irritating indicator. In the meantime, I will remove those posts from the public stream. Not sure yet if it will help, since I’ve no idea how these nonsensical connections happen. For the most part, WordPress is catching them, but every so often, one makes it to the Comments for the post.

Shortly after putting up the blog, I changed the settings on Comments so they would display immediately, rather than requiring my explicit approval. Will have to wait and see if these spams start to sneak parasitically on to other posts. If so, I may have to go back to approval mode for the comments, which would be a shame.

Stay tuned and keep on reading!

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Azores festival in progress – summer 2014

From the NY Times – a newish festival in the Azores is gaining in popularity.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 19-20 July 2014

Apologies once again for not bothering to post last weekend’s tube closures. I’m planning to add the TfL website to my blog’s HOT LINKS! list on the right-hand side of the screen, assuming I can set it up so the most important info is included that way. This will mean my blog posts won’t be endlessly cluttered with London Tube notes. That probably means I’ll have to start writing my own travel posts again. Uh-oh.

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures. Not much on, thankfully.

Metropolitan line – Wembley Park to Northwood and Uxbridge

Piccadilly line – Rayners Lane to Uxbridge (not part of the line out to Heathrow)

London Overground – Sunday only – Clapham Junction to Kensington (Olympia) and Camden Road to Willesden Junction via West Hampstead. The stretch between Sydenham and West Croydon opens late on Sunday – 9.15.

TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … weekend closures are no longer required on the westbound carriageway. Any additional work will be done overnight. Yahoo!

Bus schedules and road use – Click here for road works, traffic snarls and road-closing events.

Road issues this w/e –

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until early Nov 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Paddington – Exit only from Bakerloo line until late August 2014.

Bond Street – Jubilee line trains will not stop here until early December 2014.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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Dancing at a Parisian firehouse on 14 Juillet

I came across a write-up on this Bastille Day tradition in and around Paris. I’ve frequently thought about visiting Paris again, perhaps even for Bastille Day; this is the best reason I can think of to put that city on my travel calendar for mid-July. Looking at the website, I wonder if there is a ‘hunk’ requirement to become a fireman in Paris – or perhaps only the really gorgeous ones are out front during the festivities. Either way, my goal would be to score at least one kiss. There are worse travel goals to have, oui?

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No more cash on London buses!

No, this does not mean that buses are free, but it’s just another sign that tourists and old farts need a rethink when boarding a London bus.

Beginning this Sunday – 6 July, 2014, bus fares cannot be paid with cash. Sooo… if you have a UK swipe card, you’re all set. Otherwise – and here is where tourists and old farts should step up – you’ll need an Oyster card. TfL has more info at this link.

Oyster cards are endlessly refillable cards you just hold in front of the reader at the turnstile. Sort of like a Metro Card in NYC, but with no expiration date. I’ve had an Oyster card for several years (clever tourist and clever old fart – that’s me) and I make sure to top it up on each trip after clearing customs at Heathrow. You can also add money to them at ticket windows, helped by a real person – this may be the only way to use American cards since we don’t have chip-&-PIN type cards yet. Sterling cash can be used at the automated ticket machines, just check the LED message at the top of each machine to be sure.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 5-6 July 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures. Not much on, thankfully. But Le Tour is coming to London on Monday, 7 July, so the next several days could be a bit crazy. I just wish I could be there for the craziness. Foof! Check this link for traffic issues related to the event.

Jubilee line – late opening from 11 am Sunday – Waterloo to Finchley Road

London Overground – Sunday only – Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction closed; also Camden Road to Willesden Junction via West Hampstead. Late 9.30 am start time on Sunday between Sydenham to West Croydon.

Bus schedules and road use – TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … westbound carriageway closed from 22.30 Friday until 5.00 Monday morning. Buses in the area may face some delays. Last week’s advice for drivers to use the signed diversion route (the A40 Western Ave detour) to avoid the A4 Great West Road through Hammersmith” may still be wise.

Road issues this w/e – an event all day Sunday on Regent Street, a concert in Finsbury Park on Fri, Sat and Sun nights and a concert in Hyde Park on Thurs, Fri and Sat nights all present the possibility of driving headaches as well as shortened bus routes. (Don’t tear your hair out with road bunchups – take the Tube and visit the event/s)!

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Paddington – Exit only from Bakerloo line Sunday 29 June until late August 2014.

Bond Street – this Central line station is back in service

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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travel and food news roundup for Prague – spring and beyond 2014

From London Independent – a new 48 hours for Prague.

The rest of these come from Prague Post.

Take an interesting tour and get to know local food. Or visit Martin’s bistro for lunch, in Prague 3. And now, reappearing at the back of U Pinkasů restau, at the bottom of Wenceslas Sq is the Gothic Garden offering beer and grilled food.

Mark your calendar for 2016 – celebrating 700th birth anniversary of Charles IV of Bohemia. Missed out on Bohemia’s saint’s day this year? Your next chance is March 15, 2015. FYI, that’s John of Nepomuk. His completely over-the-top silver-encased tomb lies in St Vitus Cathedral inside the Prague Castle grounds. See my previous post for more info on the tomb and John’s somewhat dubious claim to fame.

The Strings of Autumn music festival is set for October and November, 2014 but tickets are already selling like hotcakes.

Karlovy Vary Film Festival runs July 4 thru July 12 this year.

For something a little out of the ordinary, even for Prague – they want Olšany Cemetery to become a touring, picnicking and book reading venue. Hopes are to put it on a par with Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.

A combined concept venue, the Theatre Cinema Café Royal is open for business. Movie and theatre buffs should check this out.

A memorial to Czech and Slovak fighters in WWII, the Winged Lion, comes to Klarov Park in Prague 1.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 28-29 June 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Metropolitan line – Moor Park to Amersham and Chesham

Jubilee line – Waterloo to Finchley Road

London Overground – Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction both days; Sunday – Clapham Junction to Willesden Junction, Camden Road to Willesden Junction via West Hampstead and Sydenham to West Croydon.

Bus schedules and road use – TfL has updated the info on the Hammersmith flyover work –  “… work is ahead of schedule … eastbound closure from 22.30 on Friday until late Saturday night… westbound carriageway will then be closed until 5.00 Monday morning. After this weekend, all closures will be westbound. Buses in the area may face some delays. Drivers who are able to do so are advised to plan their journeys and use the signed diversion route ( ed., the A40 Western Ave detour) to avoid the A4 Great West Road through Hammersmith“.

Road issues this w/e – a parade on Saturday from Baker St to Whitehall via Oxford and both Regent Sts; a festival at Trafalgar Sq Saturday evening. There is a music festival on Saturday and Sunday afternoons and early evenings. (Don’t tear your hair out with road bunchups – go for the music)!

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – this Central line station is back in service

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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London Tube closures for weekend of 21-22 June 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Circle line – Gloucester Road to Edgware Rd via Bayswater

Jubilee line – late opening at 11 am Sunday between Waterloo to Finchley Road

District line – Earl’s Court to Wimbledon; check the TfL link for bus service to Southfields if you’re headed to the tennis before the main draw (I assume there is tennis before the main draw – like qualifying or similar) which starts on Monday.

London Overground Saturday – Highbury & Islington to Clapham Junction/New Cross/
Crystal Palace/West Croydon; Sunday – Camden Road to Willesden Junction via West Hampstead; Highbury & Islington to Clapham Junction/New Cross/ New Cross Gate; Sydenham to Crystal Palace

Bus schedules and road use – TfL’s info regarding the flyover says – “The Hammersmith flyover is closed eastbound this weekend. It is closed in one direction for the next (several) weekends to allow for resurfacing and waterproofing work. This is part of the final phase of the strengthening work. Each weekend closure is from 22:30 Friday until 05:00 Monday. These closures are eastbound until Monday 30 June and westbound from Friday 4 July until Monday 4 August. Buses in the area may face some delays. Drivers who are able to do so are advised to plan their journeys and use the signed diversion route to avoid the A4 Great West Road through Hammersmith“.

Road issues this w/e – a march on Saturday afternoon from Marylebone to Westminster via Oxford Circus and Trafalgar Sq will add to the day’s busyness; rally at Parliament Sq to follow around 6pm. Sunday thrills include a running event near Hackney, E London between 6.30 am and 2 pm,  another road race in the City from 7.30 am to 1 pm set from St Paul’s towards Bank. Finally, Regent St will be closed most of Sunday, so bus routes will end before Oxford St. Fun fun fun.

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – this Central line station is back in service

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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Look for a new £1 coin in 2017

From the London Independent. Found this sitting in my draft folder, but I should have posted it ages ago.

The first thought that popped into my head when I saw this was… will this new twelve-sided £1 coin work in vending machines without the machines needing a tweak? And is it the same diameter as the current coin? The second thing was surprise at the reported number of counterfeit coins in circulation and how many are pulled from the currency stream. Three percent? Really? Holy cow!

As to what is punched onto the reverse, my vote would be for a range of images similar to the new designs slated for the American quarter-dollars of national parks and other places. The edges of the pound coins are already stamped with different blurbs related to the four parts of the UK, so that base has already been covered. Just a thought.

I don’t usually bother emptying my pockets of foreign currency when I reach the end of my trip/s because I always assume “I’ll be back”. This meant I got stuck with some old French francs, though I can supposedly still exchange my Belgian and Dutch notes for euros if I go to the main central bank offices in Brussels or Amsterdam. Hmmm – that might be worth trying soon.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 14-15 June 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Circle line – Gloucester Road to Edgware Rd via Bayswater

Jubilee line – London Bridge to North Greenwich

District line – Edgware Rd to Wimbledon

London Overground Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction; Sunday only – Camden Road to Willesden Junction

Bus schedules and road use – TfL’s info regarding the flyover says – “The Hammersmith flyover is closed eastbound this weekend. It is closed in one direction for the next (several) weekends to allow for resurfacing and waterproofing work. This is part of the final phase of the strengthening work. Each weekend closure is from 22:30 Friday until 05:00 Monday. These closures are eastbound until Monday 30 June and westbound from Friday 4 July until Monday 4 August. Buses in the area may face some delays. Drivers who are able to do so are advised to plan their journeys and use the signed diversion route to avoid the A4 Great West Road through Hammersmith“.

Road issues this w/e around Tooting (both days), Westminster (Saturday), Clapham and beyond on Sunday for a cycling event.  On Sunday, from 11:15 until 15:00, a procession will take place in Central London between Hyde Park and Trafalgar Square. Buses will be on diversion or stop short of their normal destination in the Notting Hill Gate, Marble Arch, Oxford Circus, Green Park, Knightsbridge and Victoria areas.

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – Central line trains not stopping until early June.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

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Reflections on D-Day and Dad

Here in the USA, we remember our veterans, especially on particular American holidays. There is Memorial Day at the end of May and Veterans’ Day on November 11th. The first of these started life as Decoration Day after the American Civil War, first observed on May 30th, but became a Monday holiday – along with three other national days – in the late 1960s. This is the day for us to remember our war dead. Veterans Day is much less celebrated than it used to be. Certainly the date has less resonance for the US than for Western Europe. Our hometowns were not devastated by the trench warfare of World War I as happened in France and Belgium nor was our male population reduced to the extreme extent that theirs was. This may explain why Nov 11 in the USA is a day to honor all our veterans, whether they are dead – and regardless of cause – or still alive. Side note – we don’t really mark May 8th (V-E Day) or V-J Day, whether the August 15th UK-recognized date or the Sept 2nd official surrender signing. It puzzles me a bit that we remember Pearl Harbor and the two A-bomb drops on Japan instead but that’s just me, I guess and a different topic altogether.

I struggle as much as anyone to mark Memorial Day and Veterans Day in an appropriately respectful way. After all, none of my ancestors were war casualties as far as I know. I’m a lucky baby-boomer and – on my father’s side – a second generation American. My Dad’s father worked in the NY shipyards at the beginning of the 20th century, having emigrated via ship from Hamburg from Bohemia when it was still part of Austria. This work may have exempted him from the WWI draft, or maybe he was not a US citizen yet.*

*I would welcome any clarification from my cousins on this point.

Dad served in the US Army from 1941 until July 1945 (shortly after V-E Day). He must have been lucky, too – he managed to make it through the war unwounded, even though he landed in Normandy on June 12th, 1944 (aka D-Day plus 6) and went on to fight at the Falaise Gap, the Battle of the Bulge and into that part of western Germany known as the Rhineland.

Dad and I made a trip to Normandy – my first, his third or fourth – in May of 2002. I’ve posted blogs about that trip, should any new followers be interested. (Key in Normandy in the search box of this blog to call up those posts). That trip was a singular experience. It turned out to be the last trip abroad Dad, aged 87, would make with me or anyone else and it included a few thrilling days in Iceland, where Dad was stationed from May 1941 until October 1943, when he got shipped first to Britain and then France; it was the first time he had been back in Iceland since the war and my only visit there until this past January.

Today I remember that trip, especially for the time we spent on the Normandy beaches. We weren’t there on the 6th of June and we weren’t there in a “big” remembrance year but it was absolutely special and, every year, today is the day when I’m most likely to weep for the sacrifices of all who serve/d, whether they live/d through the effort or not and, approaching the sixth anniversary of Dad’s passing at the end of August, I weep because I miss him.

So, even if I somehow forget to fly the flag on Memorial Day or Veteran’s Day or Flag Day (June 14th), I put it out on June the 6th. It’s after sundown. The flag is in. When the lump in my throat goes away, I’ll have some dinner.

Dad in NY, I think, comrades in arms and Dad - possibly in Iceland

(L) Dad in NY, I think, (C) comrades in arms and (R) Dad – possibly in Iceland

 

Posted in All Suzanne's travel essays | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

London Tube closures for weekend of 7-8 June 2014; taxi strike 11 June

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Circle line – Gloucester Road to Edgware Rd

Jubilee line – Waterloo to Finchley Road late opening at 11.00 on Sunday

District line – Earl’s Court to Edgware Rd

Metropolitan line – Moor Park to Amersham/Chesham

Northern line – Camden Town to Kennington via Bank

DLR – Westferry/Poplar to Island Gardens and Canning Town to Beckton

London Tramlink – Addiscombe to Beckenham Junction/Elmers End

London Overground disruptions are Sunday only –  Camden Road to Richmond;  Shepherd’s Bush to Willesden Junction; Surrey Quays to Clapham Junction. The line between South Tottenham and Barking opens late on Sunday, beginning at noon.

Bus schedules and road use affected by closures on the Hammersmith flyover, a road race between Greenwich and the Mall and more headaches on Sunday afternoon around Kensington, Marylebone, Hyde Park corner, Marble Arch, Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus, Tottenham Court Road, Trafalgar Square, County Hall, Westminster and Victoria areas. TfL’s info regarding the flyover says – “The Hammersmith flyover is closed eastbound this weekend. It is closed in one direction for the next nine weekends to allow for resurfacing and waterproofing work. This is part of the final phase of the strengthening work. Each weekend closure is from 22:30 Friday until 05:00 Monday. These closures are eastbound until Monday 30 June and westbound from Friday 4 July until Monday 4 August. Buses in the area may face some delays. Drivers who are able to do so are advised to plan their journeys and use the signed diversion route to avoid the A4 Great West Road through Hammersmith“.

A taxi strike is set for Weds., 11 June around Trafalgar Sq. Oy.

Road jams and closures can be looked up on this link.

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – Central line trains not stopping until early June.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

Rental bike issues at South Quay West and Hurlingham Park.

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Celebrating Queen’s/King’s Day/Night in the Netherlands

In 2013, the annual celebration of Queen Beatrix’s birthday at the end of April became a joint Queen’s/King’s Day all over the Netherlands. It was to be the last Queen’s Day (Koninginnedag) and the first of many King’s Days (Koningsdag), since the queen’s son was replacing his mother on the Dutch throne the following day. From 2014 on, it becomes King’s Day and the official date moves from 30 April to 27 April.

Beginning at 6pm the night before this national holiday, the Dutch people hold a nationwide tag sale, beginning at 6pm. This free market (vrijmarkt), is the only time of the year when anyone can sell stuff in public without getting a permit and folks definitely take advantage. I was staying at a house in Alkmaar, a town near Amsterdam last year, when I went to the Netherlands to look in on this once-in-a-lifetime dual birthday bash. The house was a on a side lane off the main shopping street and a good ten minute walk to the train station, so I had a chance to check out the first setups as I headed off to catch a train to Amsterdam for some sightseeing.

staking out a spot for Queens/Kings Night vrijmarkt, Alkmaar, Netherlands

staking out a spot for Queens/Kings Night vrijmarkt, Alkmaar, Netherlands

As is the case with any special event, people staked out the best location for the big day early. Tables and blankets filled with all sorts of stuff from attics and basements were set up practically at sunrise, owners keeping watch, probably more to guard the spot than because of any worry over thieves.

By 6pm, not only were the covers off and the crowds out and about, but booths were open for business selling stroopwafels and other sweet snacks, mass-produced souvenirs and even a few midway games. Orange is the overwhelming color for hats, scarves and other clothing because the Dutch royal family is known as the House of Orange. Streamers and balloons, almost anything that was orange decorated buildings, canalside railings, street lamps – you get the idea. A fun family evening for sure.

the vrijmarkt, downtown Alkmaar

the vrijmarkt, downtown Alkmaar

Alkmaar's canalside tag sale tables

Alkmaar’s canalside tag sale tables

The sprawling anything-for-sale flea market was in evidence in Amsterdam on the day itself but, mixed in with all the rest of the event hoopla, it felt only marginally less wild. Orange hats, wigs, inflatable orange crowns, more balloons, little flags handed out to wave

Dam Square Amsterdam  Queen's/King's Day 2013

Dam Square Amsterdam Queen’s/King’s Day 2013; banners display Willem Alexander’s monogram

when we got to Dam Square, where jumbotrons displayed the procession of dignitaries and miscellaneous royals. The crowd was so huge and dense, there was no other way to have any idea what was going on. Mind you, I’m not up on my European royalty, so, except for Queen Beatrix herself, I had no clue who was being shown.

I’ve read that the police are stood down on this day but, having said that, there didn’t seem to be anything happening to require their attention beyond giving directions or posing for photos.

police snap photos for happy visitors

police snap photos for happy visitors

The street cleaners had their work cut out for them in the aftermath, despite the fact that trash barrels were crammed to overflowing with rubbish.

Rubbishy aftermath of the celebrations

Rubbishy aftermath of the celebrations

The souvenirs I brought home from the day are in another blog post. My big purchase in Alkmaar on King’s Night? A pair of tiny orange knit caps with red, white and blue detailing. I assumed these were probably doll’s clothes, but I bought them for my dashboard rats. Side note – I don’t remember how the rats got started; they’re from IKEA and they began life perched on top of my cubicle wall at the office. Now that I’m retired and with no intention of ever getting stuck in a cube farm again, the rats moved (logically?) to the dashboard of my car. Their attire, usually cobbled together from craft store scraps, changes with the seasons and the holidays. Nothing too fancy. After all, they’re just cuddly toy RATS, for cryin’ out loud. Still, they looked quite charming in their orange ski caps this past winter. Hooray for the House of Orange!

IKEA rats in orange caps

IKEA rats in orange caps

 

Posted in All Suzanne's travel essays, All Suzanne's travels, Amsterdam travel, BeNeLux, European festivals, Netherlands travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Dutch rail tickets and Heathrow’s runway plans

From Dutch News. Paper train tickets are being phased out this summer. Time to look into the alternatives. The chipkaart sounds similar to NYC’s Metro Cards and London’s Oyster card and should be easy to get. The tricky part may be if they’re only available from a machine rather than from a human – but that’s only an issue if you lack a credit or debit card that’s incompatible with the machine. Chip-and-PIN cards will be fine, but our old-fashioned US magnetic strip cards may be a problem.

And this from the NY Times – an article on the new Terminal 2 at Heathrow and the (continuing) struggle between LHR and Gatwick for an additional runway. Where do these goofballs expect to stick another runway at Heathrow? It seems to me that Gatwick makes much more sense, especially if there could be a Gatwick Express rail connection to central London similar to the one from Heathrow. What they’ve got now is a poky, one-stopper running on the same rails as the regular trains (zzzzzz!) If both those improvements came to Gatwick, I’d be more than happy to fly Virgin or Icelandair into Gatwick, instead of the grim scrum of Heathrow – even if the new terminal arrangement at LHR puts Virgin’s gates closer to the customs and immigration hall, as is claimed in the article.

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London Tube closures for weekend of 31 May – 1 June 2014

Here are this weekend’s Tube closures.

Circle line – Gloucester Road to Aldgate via Victoria

Farringdon station closed

District line – S Kensington to Aldgate East and Earl’s Court to Kensington (Olympia)

Metropolitan line – Moor Park to Amersham/Chesham

Northern line – Saturday – Camden Town to Edgware; Sunday – Chalk Farm to Edgware

DLR – Westferry/Poplar to Island Gardens and Canning Town to Beckton

London Tramlink – Addiscombe to Beckenham Junction/Elmers End

London Overground disruptions are Sunday only –  Richmond to Camden Road; Shepherd’s Bush to Willesden Junction. Late Sunday service only between Sydenham and West Croydon, beginning at 17.30.

Bus schedules and road use affected by roadworks on the Hammersmith flyover from 22.30 Friday until 5.00 Monday. Other road jams expected around Clapham Common (Sunday Thames Water Works), Hyde Park (Saturday events, including a doggy day out), Wembley (Saturday boxing match)  and Twickenham (Saturday premiership rugby and Sunday England v Barbos).

Reminders –

Embankment – Bakerloo and Northern line trains not stopping until November 2014.

Covent Garden – Exit only until mid-November 2014. Also, on Saturdays and Sundays, westbound trains not stopping.

Bond Street – Central line trains not stopping until early June.

Gloucester Road – Piccadilly line trains not stopping until mid-December 2014

Rental bike docking stations are out of service around Hyde Park.

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